Dr. Michael Denner: You can tell a lot about a cuisine and culture by the way they eat their milkโฆ Thatโs the point I tried to make in our latest Georgian Cooking Club meeting, waving about a gallon of milk, sheathed in its translucent plastic carapace. My students were confused at firstโฆ
Georgian Milk
Milk. I think a lot about milk when Iโm travelling through Georgia. Does any country consume more milk than Georgia?
And anyone whoโs travelled to Georgia will tell stories aboutโฆ cows. They are everywhere. Mostly, though, it seems they spend their lives standing in the middle of the highway, in large herds, distractedly swatting at flies, while you uselessly honk and shout from your stopped car. Iโve seen herds of cows in urban regions, too: right in downtown Zugdidi! And Iโve made way for a lowing herd to pass me while hiking a trail high up in the isolated Mtirala National Park, between the Black Sea and Achara mountain system. Iโve seen them eating grass at the edge of glaciers high in the Caucasus Mountains of Svaneti.
Cows. Everywhere.
Each heifer can produce six or seven gallons of milk per day, while itโs milking. And that milk stays good for, maybe, a day or two without refrigeration. And even with refrigeration, what are you going to do with all that milk in a country with fewer than four million residents, a country famous for its mountain passes and difficult roadways? I donโt know what percentage of Georgian milk is consumed domestically, but I guess nearly all of it. So, obviously, Georgians have devised ways to eat their milk, turning that white liquid into something munchable, using varieties of alchemical wizardry.
The easiest trick for turning milk solid is yogurt, which is really nothing but milk solidified by bacteria and yeast. It happens naturally, with the addition of just a little old yogurt to a gallon of milk and a few hours, a process called โbackwashing.โ In Georgia, yogurt is called matsoni, and it was Georgiaโs most famous contribution to world food cultures during the twentieth centuryโฆ โIn Soviet Georgiaโ was a Dannon commercial series from the 1970s depicting really old Georgians gobbling up yogurtโฆ These commercials โ I remember them well โ were largely responsible for the popularization of yogurt in the United States, which until the mid-1970s was a niche product. Why a company founded in Catalonia by a Sephardic Jew and based in Paris was advertising yogurt to America using examples from Soviet Georgiaโฆ thatโs a story for another time. Suffice it to say, when I was a kid growing up, everyone knew that โin Soviet Georgiaโ they loved yogurt. But I assure you, they did not eat Dannon. They ate matsoni.
Georgian Cheese
In our latest Georgian Cooking Club meeting here at Stetson University, I demonstrated how easy it is to make cheese by making Imeretian cheese, a cheese from the region Imereti, in central-western Georgia. It is easy: heat milk to about 130 degrees fahrenheit, add a few drops of rennet, wait forty-five minutes, scoop out the curds, drain the curds in the refrigerator for a few days, and you haveโฆ Cheese!
Cheese is, essentially, nothing more than curds separated from the whey, using enzymes to coagulate milk solids (fats and proteins). The curds form a solid mass, what in Russian is called โัััะฝะฐั ะผะฐััะฐโ โcheese mass.โ The cheese maker cuts them with a long thin knife into manageable pieces, harvests them, and drains away the remaining whey. The whey is just whatโs left over: Little Miss Moffet was eating essentially the result and the byproduct of cheesemaking.
Now, hereโs where it gets interesting. What do you do with all that whey thatโs left over? You boil it and make more cheese! Every cheese making culture has a different word for the product of this second cullingโฆ The Italians call it ricotta, which means โrecooked,โ referring to the second cooking that the whey undergoes. In Russian itโs โัะฒะพัะพะณโ (tvorog). In Georgian, itโs nadugi, which means more or less the same things as ricotta: โcookedโ or โboiled.โ One gallon of milk makes about a pound of fresh cheese, and another cup or two of nadugi.
When we finished making our Imeretian cheese, our Georgian Cooking Club brought the remaining whey to a boil and produced about a cup of nadugi. You just skim the fine curds from the top of the bubbling whey using a spoon. If the whey after this initial boiling remains white, indicating that there are still a lot of โmilk solidsโ left, you can add a tablespoon or two of distilled vinegar to the whey, bring it to a boil again, and harvest the rest of the nadugi that floats to the top.
How And When to Eat Nadugi
In Georgia, nadugi is the king of cold appetizers. Itโs sometimes mixed with fresh mint, a combination that was a real revelation for me when I first tried it. Itโs often served, a tablespon per serving, wrapped in a cone of thinly-sliced suluguni, another type of Georgian cheese. Imagine a miniature ice cream cone, with the piece of suluguni playing the role of the cone, and the nadugi as ice cream.
My students were reluctantโฆ I mean, mint and cheese? But, trust me, itโs a revelation! For a cup of nadugi, add a heaping tablespoon of finely-chopped mint and a teaspoon of coarse salt. (I like the crunch of salt in the tender texture.) Then, form the nadugi into pretty shapes on plates, as Tina proposes below. (I havenโt tried the orange variation, but I bet itโs lovely.)
Finally, because I wanted to make a point, I made a pile of Russian โะฑะปะธะฝัโ (bliny) from the remaining whey: โะฑะปะธะฝั ะธะท ััะฒะพัะพัะบะธ,โ blini from whey. Georgians eat bliny all the time, but I believe they think of them as a Russian dish, which makes perfect sense: Georgian foodways are global. Russia has exerted, for better or worse, enormous influence on its smaller neighbor on the other side of the Caucasus.
The recipe for bliny couldnโt be simpler: For every cup of whey, use one egg and one cup of flour. Mix well, add a few pinches of salt, a few pinches of sugar, maybe a big pinch of baking soda if you wantโฆ Then make your pancakes! Thereโs something special about whey-based bliny that makes them better.
So, one gallon of milk yielded us a pound of cheese, a cup of nadugi, and a pile of bliny. Thatโs how we ate our milk. Enjoy!
The recipe below is my translation and adaption of the recipe in ะะพะฑะธะพ, ัะฐัะธะฒะธ, ั ะฐัะฐะฟััะธ, ะธะปะธ ะััะทะธั ัะพ ะฒะบััะพะผ (Lobio, Satsivi, Khatchapuri, or Georgia with Taste) by Tinatin Mzhavanadze.
SRAS: Before moving on to the recipe, I feel the need to interject that, indeed, adults drinking milk is considered an odd thing, it seems, across Eurasia. Although dairy makes up a substantial part of many of the national diets, and although it is common to give kids milk, adults are expected to have grown out of drinking fresh milk and moved on to drinking kefir or any of the fermented milk drinks that Eurasians drink in dizzying variety. The look Iโve often gotten from locals in Eurasia, seeing me drinking straight milk, especially cold from the refrigerator, is similar to the expression you might develop seeing someone eat sour cream with a spoon straight from the container. PS โ Iโve seen people here eat sour cream straight from the containerโฆ
Tinatin Mzhavanadze Recipe (English)
(as translated and adapted from Russian by Dr. Michael Denner): Thereโs no competition, I think: The champion of cold appetizers is nadugi. In Georgian, the word means something like โboiledโ or โcooked.โ nadugi looks a bit like old-fashioned cottage cheese or ricotta: a mass, white as snow, with a mild dairy flavor and slightly grainy texture.
It is, however, not exactly cottage cheese, as itโs a whey-cheese, made from boiling the milky whey thatโs left over from cheesemaking, until recently practiced almost universally in home kitchens in Georgia. It is the simplest of milk products, with practically no fat.
Wherever nadugi is sold, youโll always find thin slices of Georgian suluguni cheese and fresh mintโฆ Mint and nadugi go together like Paris and the Eiffel Tower.
Such a simple, delicious, and versatile appetizer. Itโs best served with corncakes (mchadi), or with corn porridge (gomi)โฆ or whatever you like, so long as they are in bite-sized morsels. Iโve been on many diets in my day and nadugi was salve for my soul, especially spread on bread and sprinkled with bran.
From the American Kitchen: While you likely wonโt find nadugi outside Georgia, there are a number of perfectly acceptable substitutions, the easiest of which is low-fat ricotta available widely in supermarkets. You can also use homemade yogurt cheese, which has a different texture but a very similar flavor: Line a large, fine strainer with cheesecloth. Add 4 cups of plain, low-fat yogurt, and place the strainer over another bowl to catch the liquid. Refrigerate for 8-10 hours, until reduced by half. (The whey will drain into the second bowl and can be reused.) You should end with about 1 pound.
The suluguni in this preparation is sliced paper thin, and serves mostly as a vehicle to transfer the nadugi to your mouth without the added complication of a utensilโฆ You can really use any mild, white cheese, especially provolone. Ask your deli counter to cut it as thinly as possible.
- 1 pound nadugi or skim-milk ricotta or yogurt cheese (see above)
- 10 very thin slices mozzarella or other mild, white cheese
- 1 small bunch mint roughly chopped (2 1/2 ounces)
- 1 clove garlic, optional
- Small piece of cooked carrot, optional
Serves: 8-10 as an appetizer
At the market, buy a pound of nadugi, ten thin round slices of suluguni, and a bunch of mint. Head home, where you carefully wash the mint, shake it thoroughly dry, and place it on the cutting board. Take out the nadugi and, using a spoon, transfer it to a prep bowl. The last tablespoonful goes straight into your mouth. Now lick your lips with the passion of a gourmand.
Using a sharp chefโs knife, mince the mint finely, rendering it into a fine dust. Add it to your mortar along with a pinch of saltโfor what itโs worth, I add a clove of garlic to entice the hungry wolves to the tableโand then pound the mix until you have an smooth, even texture. Using a clean spoon or silicone spatula, scrape the mortar clean of all the mint and salt, adding it to the nadugi in the bowl.
The skyโs the limit now. Time for pure, unadulterated creativity. You canโฆ
- Mix the green and white masses together, and end up with a speckled variant;
- Dump the nadugi and mint into the blender jar, and give it a whizz for a few seconds. Your nadugi will have a fine, light consistency, and it will take on the bright, light green of Expressionism, not unlike the green of fresh lettuce;
- If you add a bit of cooked carrot on the blender jar, youโll end up with an orangish accentโฆ the carrot adds no flavor, just vivacious color.
- You may choose to add some ground black pepper for zing.
Iโve heard some people even add ground walnutsโฆ oh, these days! People have no respect for traditionโฆ And so on. Letโs not go too far. The original, authentic recipe has stood the test of time.
Your nadugi is finished, but your art has only just begunโฆ Here are some ideas: You can place it prettily on little plates and style it into waves, swirling it with the back of a spoon. Or make parallel marks on the surface using a knife, and then decorate it with some sprigs of mint. You can wrap the nadugi in the thin slices of cheese, and then the magic really starts: How about jellyrolls? Or stuffed envelopes? And beggarโs purses, like they serve in fancy restaurants? Tied neatly with a single chive. Very elegant!
SRAS: The above translation and adaptation differs from the original not only in converting the measurements from metric to imperial units (as used by Americans), but also in codifying and more distinctly spelling out the processes that the original author more breezily lays out for an audience more familiar with the food. While giving less instruction, she does give more discussion of variations on the food, for instance. The adaptation by Dr. Denner relies on both the original text and experience traveling to meet the original author and make the recipes with her โ making this particular translation and adaptation effort extraordinarily collaborative. We include the original text below for comparison.
Tinatin Mzhavanadze Recipe (Russian)
ะะฐ ะผะพะน ะฒะทะณะปัะด, ะฝะฐ ะณััะทะธะฝัะบะพะผ ััะพะปะต ััะตะดะธ ั ะพะปะพะดะฝัั ะทะฐะบััะพะบ ะฑะตััะฟะพัะฝัะน ัะตะผะฟะธะพะฝ โ ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ. ะ ะฑัะบะฒะฐะปัะฝะพะผ ะฟะตัะตะฒะพะดะต ััะพ ัะปะพะฒะพ ะพะทะฝะฐัะฐะตั ยซะบะธะฟััะตะฝัะน, ัะฒะตัะตะฝะฝัะนยป.
ะะฐ ะฒะธะด ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ ะฒัะณะปัะดะธั, ะบะฐะบ ะดะตัะตะฒะตะฝัะบะธะน ัะฒะพัะพะณ: ะฑะตะปะพัะฝะตะถะฝะฐั ะผะฐััะฐ ั ะฝะตะถะฝัะผ ัะปะธะฒะพัะฝัะผ ะฒะบััะพะผ ะธ ะผะตะปะบะพะทะตัะฝะธััะพะน ัะตะบััััะพะน. ะะดะฝะฐะบะพ ััะพ ะฝะต ัะพะฒัะตะผ ัะฒะพัะพะณ, ะฟะพัะพะผั ััะพ ะฟะพะปััะฐะตััั ะพะฝ ะฟัััะผ ะบะธะฟััะตะฝะธั ััะฒะพัะพัะบะธ, ะพััะฐะฒัะตะนัั ะพั ะผะพะปะพะบะฐ ะฟะพัะปะต ะธะทะณะพัะพะฒะปะตะฝะธั ัััะฐ. ะขะฐะบะธะผ ะพะฑัะฐะทะพะผ, ััะพ ะปะตะณัะฐะนัะธะน ะผะพะปะพัะฝัะน ะฟัะพะดัะบั, ะฒ ะบะพัะพัะพะผ ะฟะพััะธ ะฝะตั ะถะธัะฐ.
ะัะพะธะทะฝะพัะธััั ัะปะพะฒะพ ัะฐะบ: ะฟัะตะดััะฐะฒััะต ัะตะฑั ะฟะฐัะธะถะฐะฝะธะฝะพะผ ะธ ะณัะฐััะธััะนัะต ยซะณยป (ะฝะพ ัะดะฐัะตะฝะธะต ะฒัะต-ัะฐะบะธ ะฝะฐ ะฒัะพัะพะผ ัะปะพะณะต). ะะฐ ะปัะฑะพะผ ะฑะฐะทะฐัะต ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ ะฟัะพะดะฐะตััั ะฒะผะตััะต ั ัะพะฝะบะธะผะธ ะปะตะฟะตัะบะฐะผะธ ััะปัะณัะฝะธ ะธ ัะฒะตะถะตะน ะผััะพะน: ะผััะฐ ะธ ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ ะฝะตัะฐะทะดะตะปะธะผั, ะบะฐะบ ะะฐัะธะถ ะธ ะญะนัะตะปะตะฒะฐ ะฑะฐัะฝั. ะั ะฟะพะบัะฟะฐะตัะต ะฟะพะปะบะธะปะพะณัะฐะผะผะฐ ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ, ัััะบ ะดะตัััั ัััะฝัั ะปะตะฟะตัะตะบ (ััะพ ััะปัะณัะฝะธ, ัะพะปัะบะพ ัะดะตะปะฐะฝะฝัะน ะฒ ะพะดะธะฝ ัะปะพะน ัะพะปัะธะฝะพะน ะฒ ะฟะพะปะธะผะธะปะปะธะผะตััะฐ), ะฟััะพะบ ะผััั ะธ ัะพะฟะฐะตัะต ะดะพะผะพะน.
ะขะฐะผ ะฒั ััะฐัะตะปัะฝะพ ะผะพะตัะต ะทะตะปะตะฝั, ะฒััััั ะธะฒะฐะตัะต, ะบะปะฐะดััะต ะฝะฐ ะดะพัะบั ะดะปั ะฝะฐัะตะทะฐะฝะธั, ะฟะพัะพะผ ะฒััะฐัะบะธะฒะฐะตัะต ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ, ะทะฐะดัะผัะธะฒะพ ะฟะตัะตะบะปะฐะดัะฒะฐะตัะต ะตะณะพ ะธะท ะฟะฐะบะตัะฐ ะปะพะถะบะพะน ะฒ ะผะธัะบั, ะฟะพัะปะตะดะฝัั ะฟะพะปะฝัั ะปะพะถะบั ะพัะฟัะฐะฒะปัะตัะต ะฒ ัะพั ะธ ะพะฑะปะธะทัะฒะฐะตัะต ัะพ ะฒัะตะผ ะฟัะปะพะผ ะณััะผะฐะฝะฐ.
ะััััะผ ะฝะพะถะธัะบะพะผ ะบัะพะผัะฐะตัะต ะฒ ะฟัะปั ะผััั, ะฟะตัะตััะฟะฐะตัะต ะตั ะฒ ัััะฟะบั ะธ ะดะพะฑะฐะฒะปัะตัะต ะบัะพัะตัะบั ัะพะปะธ (ั, ะบ ะฟัะธะผะตัั, ะดะพะฑะฐะฒะปัั ะตัั ะทัะฑัะธะบ ัะตัะฝะพะบะฐ โ ะดะปั ะดะพะฟะพะปะฝะธัะตะปัะฝะพะณะพ ะฒะพะทะฑัะถะดะตะฝะธั ะธ ะฑะตะท ัะพะณะพ ะฒะพะปััะตะณะพ ะฐะฟะฟะตัะธัะฐ), ะฟะพัะพะผ ัะพะปัััะต ะธ ัะฐััะธัะฐะตัะต ะดะพ ะฟะพะปััะตะฝะธั ะพะดะฝะพัะพะดะฝะพะน ะบะฐัะธัั.
ะะฝะณัะตะดะธะตะฝัั:
(ะฝะฐ 10 ะฟะพััะธะน): ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ (ะธะปะธ ัะธะบะพััะฐ, ะธะปะธ ะฝะตะถะธัะฝัะน ัะฒะพัะพะณ) โ 0,5 ะบะณ ะปะตะฟััะบะธ ััะปัะณัะฝะธ โ 10 ัั. (ะฟะพ ะถะตะปะฐะฝะธั), ะผััะฐ โ ะฟััะพะบ, ัะพะปั, ัะตัะฝะพะบ โ ะฟะพ ะฒะบััั
ะะตัััะต ัะธัััั ะปะพะถะบั, ะฒััะบัะตะฑะฐะตัะต ะธะท ัััะฟะบะธ ะผััั ั ัะพะปัั ะธ ะฒะผะตัะธะฒะฐะตัะต ะฒ ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ.
ะะฐะปะตะต ะพัะบััะฒะฐะตััั ะฟัะพััะพั ะดะปั ัะธััะพะณะพ, ะฝะตะทะฐะผััะฝัะฝะฝะพะณะพ ะบะพัััััั ะธัะบััััะฒะฐ:
- ะฒั ะผะพะถะตัะต ัะบัะฟัะตััะธะฒะฝะพ ะฟะตัะตะผะตัะฐัั ะทะตะปะตะฝั ั ะฑะตะปะพะน ะผะฐััะพะน ะธ ะฟะพะปััะธัั ะฒะฐัะธะฐะฝั ะฒ ะบัะฐะฟะธะฝะบั;
- ะฒั ะผะพะถะตัะต ัะผะตัะฐัั ะธั ะฒ ะฑะปะตะฝะดะตัะต ะดะพ ัะพะฒะฝะพะณะพ ัะฐะปะฐัะพะฒะพะณะพ ะพััะตะฝะบะฐ โ ะฒ ะดัั ะต ะธะผะฟัะตััะธะพะฝะธััะพ;
- ะฒั ะผะพะถะตัะต ะดะพะฑะฐะฒะธัั ะพัะฐะฝะถะตะฒัะต ะฐะบัะตะฝัั ั ะฟะพะผะพััั ะบััะพัะบะพะฒ ะพัะฒะฐัะตะฝะฝะพะน ะผะพัะบะพะฒะธ โ ะฒะบััะฐ ะฝะธะบะฐะบะพะณะพ, ะทะฐัะพ ัะบะพะปัะบะพ ะถะธะฒะพััะธ!
- ะฒั ะดะฐะถะต ะผะพะถะตัะต ััะฟะฐะฝััั ะผะพะปะพัะพะณะพ ัััะฝะพะณะพ ะฟะตััะฐ ะดะปั ะณะพัะธัะฝะพััะธ.
ะฏ ัะปััะฐะปะฐ, ััะพ ะฒ ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ ะดะฐะถะต ะฒะผะตัะธะฒะฐัั ะผะพะปะพะดัะต ะณัะตัะบะธะต ะพัะตั ะธ โ ะพ ะฒัะตะผะตะฝะฐ! ะ ะฝัะฐะฒั! ะั ะธ ัะฐะบ ะดะฐะปะตะต โ ะฝะพ ัะปะธัะบะพะผ ะดะฐะปะตะบะพ ะพั ะพัะธะณะธะฝะฐะปะฐ ัะพะถะต ะพัั ะพะดะธัั ะฝะต ััะพะธั.
ะขะฐะบ ะฒะพั, ะฝะฐะดัะณะพะฒะฐั (ะธะปะธ ะฝะฐะดัะถัั) ะผะฐััะฐ ะณะพัะพะฒะฐ, ะฝะพ ัะฒะพััะตััะฒะพ ะฟัะพะดะพะปะถะฐะตััั.
ะะพะถะฝะพ ะบัะฐัะธะฒะพ ะฒัะปะพะถะธัั ะตะณะพ ะฝะฐ ะผะฐะปะตะฝัะบะธะต ัะฐัะตะปะพัะบะธ ะธ ัะดะตะปะฐัั ะฒะพะปะฝั ะปะพะถะบะพะน ะธะปะธ ะฝะฐัะตัะบะธ ะฝะพะถะพะผ ะธ ัะบัะฐัะธัั ะฒะตัะพัะบะพะน ะผััั, ะฐ ะผะพะถะฝะพ ะทะฐะฒะตัะฝััั ะฒ ัะฐะปัะตัะพัะบะธ-ััะปัะณัะฝะธ! ะ ะบะฐะบ ะทะฐะฒะตัะฝััั โ ะพ ะณะพัะฟะพะดะฐ, ััะพ ัะธััะฐั ัะฐะดะพััั ะดะธะทะฐะนะฝะตัะฐ!
ะ ััะปะตัะธะบะพะผ! ะ ะบะพะฝะฒะตััะธะบะพะผ! ะ ะบะพัะพะผะพัะบะพะน!
ะ ะฟะตัะตะฒัะทะฐัั ะฟััััะบะพะผ ะปัะบะฐ-ัะตะทะฐะฝัะฐ โ ะธะทััะฝะพ ะธ ะบะพะบะตัะปะธะฒะพ.
ะั ะฟะพัะผะพััะธัะต, ััะพ ะทะฐ ะบัะฐัะพัะฐ!
ะัะณะบะฐั, ะฐะฟะฟะตัะธัะฝะฐั, ัััะตัะธัะฝะฐั ั ะพะปะพะดะฝะฐั ะทะฐะบััะบะฐ, ะบะพัะพััั ะฟะพะปะฐะณะฐะตััั ะตััั ะปะธะฑะพ ั ะผัะฐะดะธ, ะปะธะฑะพ ั ะณะพะผะธ, ะปะธะฑะพ ะบะฐะบ ั ะพัะธัะต โ ั ะพัั ัะตะปะธะบะพะผ ะพัะฟัะฐะฒะปัั ะฒ ัะพั. ะะพ ะฒัะตะผั ะฝะตัะบะพะฝัะฐะตะผัั ะดะธะตั ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ โ ััะปะฐะดะฐ ะผะพะตะน ะดััะธ: ะพัะพะฑะตะฝะฝะพ ะฝะฐะผะฐะทะฐะฝะฝัะน ะฝะฐ ั ะปะตะฑ ั ะพัััะฑัะผะธ ะฝะฐ ะทะฐะฒััะฐะบ.
ะกะฟะตัะธะฐะปะธััั ะณะพะฒะพััั, ััะพ ะธัะฐะปััะฝัะบะฐั ัะธะบะพััะฐ ะบะพะฝัะตะฟััะฐะปัะฝะพ ะธะทะณะพัะฐะฒะปะธะฒะฐะตััั ัะฐะบ ะถะต, ะบะฐะบ ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ.
ะัะปะธ ะฒ ะฟัะตะดะตะปะฐั ะดะพััะณะฐะตะผะพััะธ ะฝะตั ะฝะฐะดัะณะธ, ะฒะพะทัะผะธัะต ะผะพะปะพะบะพ ะธ ะบะฐะปััะธะน ะธ ััะฒะพัะพะถััะต ัะฐะผะธ, ัะตะณะพ ัะถ ัะฐะผ.
ะฅะพัั ะตััั ะพัะตะฝั ะฟัะพััะพะน ัะฟะพัะพะฑ ะฟะพะปััะธัั ะฟะพั ะพะถะธะน ะฟะพ ะฒะบััั ะฟัะพะดัะบั, ะดะฐะถะต ะตัั ะฑะพะปะตะต ะฝะตะถะฝัะน: ะฝะฐะดะพ ะฒะทััั ัะฒะตะถะตะต ะผะฐัะพะฝะธ โ ะฟัะธะผะตัะฝะพ ะฟะพะป-ะปะธััะฐ, ะฝะฐะปะธัั ะฒ ัะธัััั ะผะฐัะปะตัะบั ะธ ะฟะพะดะฒะตัะธัั ะบะพัะพะผะบะพะน ััะตะบะฐัั ะฝะฐ ะฝะพัั ะฝะฐะด ะผะธัะบะพะน.
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