Olivier Salad recipe history culture

Olivier Salad - Russian comfort food for the holidays.

Olivier Salad: A Russian Holiday Tradition

Published: August 5, 2018

Olivier Salad (ะกะฐะปะฐั‚ ยซะžะปะธะฒัŒะตยป) is a salad for which the recipe can vary widely, but which is typically made from chopped vegetables and meat in a mayonnaise base.

Invented in Moscow, the salad is now popular throughout the countries of the former Soviet Union and beyond. In places like Turkey, Iran, and Greece, it is eaten and often known as โ€œRussian Saladโ€ (ะ ัƒััะบะธะน ัะฐะปะฐั‚). In Russia, it is synonymous with holiday celebrations โ€“ traditionally made for New Yearโ€™s and nearly any other major event involving a large family meal.

How It Got Its Name

(ะŸะพั‡ะตะผัƒ ั‚ะฐะบ ะฝะฐะทั‹ะฒะฐะตั‚ัั?)

According to one legend, the salad is named โ€œะžะปะธะฒัŒะตโ€ (Olivier), because it was first made for the actor Sir Lawrence Olivier. The legend is absolutely false, but is a good way to remember how to pronounce the saladโ€™s name: Olivierย is pronounced in Russian and English the same as the legendary actorโ€™s name.

The actual history is that the salad was invented in the 1860s and named for its creator, chef Lucien Olivier. This Belgian (who may have been originally French), ran a Parisian-style restaurant in Moscow called โ€œHermitage.โ€

The salad made his elite establishment one of the Russian capitalโ€™s most talked about and frequented establishments. โ€œะžะปะธะฒัŒะต ั€ะตะฒะฝะพัั‚ะฝะพ ั…ั€ะฐะฝะธะป ั€ะตั†ะตะฟั‚ ะบะฐะบ ะบะพะผะผะตั€ั‡ะตัะบัƒัŽ ั‚ะฐะนะฝัƒโ€ (Olivier carefully guarded the recipe as a trade secret), always preparing it himself โ€“ and in fact took the recipe to his grave.

It survived via two derived sources. โ€œะžะดะธะฝ ั€ะตั†ะตะฟั‚ ะฑั‹ะป ัƒะบั€ะฐะดะตะฝ ั€ะฐะฑะพั‚ะฝะธะบะพะผ ะบัƒั…ะฝะธโ€ (One version was stolen by an employee) who was able to sneak a look at the work station while the great chef was called away. โ€œะ”ั€ัƒะณะพะน ั€ะตั†ะตะฟั‚ ะฑั‹ะป ัะพะทะดะฐะฝ ะพะดะฝะธะผ ะธะท ะฟะพัั‚ะพัะฝะฝั‹ั… ะฟะพัะตั‚ะธั‚ะตะปะตะน ั€ะตัั‚ะพั€ะฐะฝะฐโ€ (Another was developed by one of the restaurantโ€™s regulars) who sought a way to keep the salad going after the chef was gone.

How to Prepare Olivier Salad

ะšะฐะบ ะฟั€ะฐะฒะธะปัŒะฝะพ ะณะพั‚ะพะฒะธั‚ัŒ ัะฐะปะฐั‚ ยซะžะปะธะฒัŒะตยป?

โ€œะœะตััŒะต ะžะปะธะฒัŒะตโ€ (Monsieur Olivier) might be comforted (or terrified) to learn that the salad of today that still bears his name bears little resemblance to his original masterpiece.

Olivier Salad recipe history culture
The birthplace of Olivier Salad. The Hermitage Restaurant as shown in a 19th-century postcard.

Olivier Salad was originally called ยซะœะฐะนะพะฝะตะท ะธะท ะดะธั‡ะธยป (โ€œGame Bird Mayonnaiseโ€). It was made with a series of gourmet ingredients including black caviar and capers, layered together with steamed game hen, and bound in layers of jellied broth. Boiled crayfish tails and pieces of tongue were arranged around the edges of the dish and it was served covered with a small amount of fresh Provencal Sauce made from olive oil, egg yolks, French vinegar, mustard, and spices. A potato skin with gherkins and slices of boiled eggs decorated the center of the dish.

However, most Russian customers, Olivier noticed, would immediately mix the layers and garnish together and eat the mush thus created with a spoon. โ€œะ‘ัƒะดัƒั‡ะธ ัˆะพะบะธั€ะพะฒะฐะฝะฝั‹ะผ, ะฝะพ ะถะตะปะฐั ัƒะณะพะดะธั‚ัŒ ะบะปะธะตะฝั‚ะฐะผ, ะฟั€ะตะดะฟั€ะธะธะผั‡ะธะฒั‹ะน ะฟะพะฒะฐั€ ะฝะฐั‡ะฐะป ะฟะพะดะฐะฒะฐั‚ัŒ ัะฒะพะน ัะฐะปะฐั‚ ะฟะตั€ะตะผะตัˆะฐะฝะฝั‹ะผ ะธ ะณัƒัั‚ะพ ะฟะพะปะธั‚ั‹ะผ ัะพัƒัะพะผโ€ (Shocked, but willing to accommodate, the enterprising chef started serving his salad mixed together and bound in sauce rather than covered in it). This is also when the name changed to Olivier Salad.

โ€œะกะพะฒั€ะตะผะตะฝะฝัƒัŽ ะฒะตั€ัะธัŽ ะฑะปัŽะดะฐ ะฑั‹ะปะพ ะฑั‹ ะฟั€ะฐะฒะธะปัŒะฝะพ ะฝะฐะทั‹ะฒะฐั‚ัŒ ยซัะพะฒะตั‚ัะบะธะผ ะพะปะธะฒัŒะตยปโ€ (The modern version of the dish could properly be called โ€œSoviet Olivierโ€). During the Soviet period, โ€œะธะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹ ัะฐะปะฐั‚ะฐ ะฝะฐั‡ะฐะปะธ ะธะทะผะตะฝัั‚ัŒัั, ะฟะพัะบะพะปัŒะบัƒ ะฝะตะบะพั‚ะพั€ั‹ะต ะธะท ะฝะธั… ัั‚ะฐะปะธ ะฝะตะดะพัั‚ัƒะฟะฝั‹โ€ (the saladโ€™s ingredients began to change as certain ingredients became rarer) in the planned economy or were deemed too bourgeois for the Soviet society.

Olivier Salad recipe history culture
What a portion of 19th century Olivier may have looked like. Recreated by restoran.ru

The caviar was dropped and the capers replaced with peas. โ€œะ ัะฑั‡ะธะบะพะฒ ะทะฐะผะตะฝะธะปะธ ะบัƒั€ะธั†ะตะน ะธะปะธ ะฒะตั‚ั‡ะธะฝะพะนโ€ (The game hen was substituted with chicken or ham). Then, as fresh meat became rarer, boiled meats and then sausage became the norm. Gherkins were replaced by more common pickles. Alternately, โ€œะฟะพัะบะพะปัŒะบัƒ ะผะฐะนะพะฝะตะท ะผะพะถะฝะพ ะฑั‹ะปะพ ะบัƒะฟะธั‚ัŒ ะฒ ะปัŽะฑะพะผ ะผะฐะณะฐะทะธะฝะตโ€ (as mayonnaise became available in stores), homemade Provence sauce was replaced with store-bought mayonnaise.

With these rapid mutations, by the late Soviet period, ยซะžะปะธะฒัŒะตยป became a term applied to many diverse salads, whether it was made from canned fish, chicken, crab pieces, or other ingredients. For many, it became a way to prepare a small amount of โ€œะผะตะฝะตะต ะดะพัั‚ัƒะฟะฝั‹ั… ะธะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ะพะฒโ€ (rarer ingredients) such as meats or seafood with those that were โ€œะฑะพะปะตะต ะดะพัั‚ัƒะฟะฝั‹ะผะธโ€ (more commonly available) such as potatoes and mayonnaise.

โ€œะŸะพะด ะฝะฐะทะฒะฐะฝะธะตะผ ยซะžะปะธะฒัŒะตยป ะฑะพะปัŒัˆะธะฝัั‚ะฒะพ ั€ะพััะธัะฝ ัะตะณะพะดะฝั ะฟั€ะตะดัั‚ะฐะฒะปััŽั‚ ยซะบะปะฐััะธั‡ะตัะบัƒัŽ ัะพะฒะตั‚ัะบัƒัŽยป ะฒะตั€ัะธัŽโ€ (Most Russians today will picture a โ€œclassic sovietโ€ version of the salad) if asked to describe it. This version includes potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, peas, pickles and bologna, all in equal amounts, mixed with enough mayonnaise to bind the ingredients well.

Most often, any recipe for Olivier Saladย that deviates from this short list of ingredients will be termed ยซะžะปะธะฒัŒะต ั โ€ฆยป (โ€œOlivier withโ€ฆโ€) to indicate what unique element the recipe offers.

โ€œะ’ัะต ะธะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹ ั€ะตะถัƒั‚ ะฝะฐ ะผะตะปะบะธะต ะบัƒะฑะธะบะธ, ั€ะฐะทะผะตั€ะพะผ ะฟั€ะธะผะตั€ะฝะพ ั ะณะพั€ะพัˆะธะฝัƒโ€ (all ingredients should be finely cubed into pieces about the size of a pea.)

Some chefs recommend a return to the use of Provencal sauce, or at least by adding mustard, vinegar, and a little olive oil to the mayonnaise before adding it to salad.

Marinated pickles (rather than salted pickles) are preferred. Some chefs also recommend replacing about a third of the pickles with fresh cucumbers โ€œั‡ั‚ะพะฑั‹ ะดะพะฑะฐะฒะธั‚ัŒ ัะฐะปะฐั‚ัƒ ัะฒะตะถะตัั‚ัŒโ€ (to add โ€œfreshnessโ€ to the salad).

While the recipe is generally and historically flexible, most Russian chefs insist that adding carrots is heresy. This has likely arisen because another salad, โ€œะกะฐะปะฐั‚ ยซะกั‚ะพะปะธั‡ะฝั‹ะนยปโ€ is usually made with carrots and is otherwise basically identical to Olivier Salad.

Incidentally, โ€œะกะฐะปะฐั‚ ยซะกั‚ะพะปะธั‡ะฝั‹ะนยปโ€ is descended directly from the recipe stolen by Monsieur Olivierโ€™s former employee. The thief rebranded it with that name. โ€œะžะฑะฐ ั€ะตั†ะตะฟั‚ะฐ ะฟะตั€ะตะถะธะปะธ ัั…ะพะถะธะต ะธะทะผะตะฝะตะฝะธั ะฒ ั…ะพะดะต ัะฒะพะตะน ะธัั‚ะพั€ะธะธโ€ (Both recipes then went through similar changes as they lived out similar histories).

When and How to Eat Olivier Salad

(ะšะฐะบ ะฟั€ะฐะฒะธะปัŒะฝะพ ะตัั‚ัŒ ัะฐะปะฐั‚ ยซะžะปะธะฒัŒะตยป?)

Olivier Salad recipe history culture
The logo from 2009-2010 production of Olivier Show.

The symbolic meaning of Olivier Salad in Russian cuisine is significant, perhaps most comparable with stuffing in America. โ€œะขะฐะบ ะถะต, ะบะฐะบ ะผะฝะพะณะธะต ะฐะผะตั€ะธะบะฐะฝั†ั‹ ะฝะต ะผะพะณัƒั‚ ะฟั€ะตะดัั‚ะฐะฒะธั‚ัŒ ัะตะฑะต ะ”ะตะฝัŒ ะ‘ะปะฐะณะพะดะฐั€ะตะฝะธั ะฑะตะท ั…ะปะตะฑะฝะพะณะพ ะฝะฐั‡ะธะฝะบะธ, ะฑะพะปัŒัˆะธะฝัั‚ะฒะพ ั€ะพััะธัะฝ ะฝะต ะฟั€ะตะดัั‚ะฐะฒะปััŽั‚ ัะตะฑะต ะะพะฒั‹ะน ะ“ะพะด ะฑะตะท ัะฐะปะฐั‚ะฐ ยซะžะปะธะฒัŒะตยป.โ€ (Much like most Americans could not imagine a Thanksgiving without stuffing, most Russians could not imagine a New Yearโ€™s without Olivier Salad.) It often shares the table with another holiday staple salad โ€“ ะกะตะปั‘ะดะบะฐ ะฟะพะด ัˆัƒะฑะพะน (Herring under a Fur Coat).

โ€œะŸะตั€ะฒั‹ะน ะบะฐะฝะฐะปโ€ (First Channel), Russiaโ€™s most watched television channel, has even capitalized on this by christening its annual New Yearโ€™s variety show, which shows animation, songs, and sketch comedy all night, as ยซะžะปะธะฒัŒะต-ัˆะพัƒยปย (The Olivier Show). This show usually plays without commercial breaks โ€“ but with regular plugs for a general sponsor. In the past, this sponsor has often been, amusingly, a mayonnaise company.

Olivier Salad Recipes

(ะ”ะฐะฒะฐะน ะŸั€ะธะณะพั‚ะพะฒะธะผ!)

See below for a free recipe for various Russian Olivier salads. You might also be interested in the following specialized cookbooks weโ€™ve enjoyed:

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ย 

ะกะฐะปะฐั‚ ะžะปะธะฒัŒะตย (ยซัะพะฒะตั‚ัะบะธะนยป ะฒะฐั€ะธะฐะฝั‚) Olivier Saladย (โ€œSovietโ€ version)
ะ˜ะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹
  • ะบะฐั€ั‚ะพั„ะตะปัŒ (ะพั‚ะฒะฐั€ะธั‚ัŒ ะธ ะฟะพั‡ะธัั‚ะธั‚ัŒ)
  • ะบะพะฝัะตั€ะฒะธั€ะพะฒะฐะฝะฝั‹ะน ะทะตะปั‘ะฝั‹ะน ะณะพั€ะพัˆะตะบ
  • ัะพะปั‘ะฝั‹ะต ะพะณัƒั€ั†ั‹
  • ะดะพะบั‚ะพั€ัะบะฐั ะบะพะปะฑะฐัะฐ
  • ัะนั†ะฐ ะฒะฐั€ั‘ะฝั‹ะต
  • ะผะฐะนะพะฝะตะท

*ะ’ัะต ะธะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹ ะฑะตั€ัƒั‚ัั ะฒ ั€ะฐะฒะฝั‹ั… ั‡ะฐัั‚ัั…

ะŸั€ะธะณะพั‚ะพะฒะปะตะฝะธะต

ะ˜ะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹ ะฝะฐั€ะตะทะฐั‚ัŒ ะผะตะปะบะธะผะธ ะบัƒะฑะธะบะฐะผะธ. ะ—ะฐะฟั€ะฐะฒะธั‚ัŒ ะผะฐะนะพะฝะตะทะพะผ. ะ”ะพะฑะฐะฒัŒั‚ะต ะฟะพ ะฒะบัƒััƒ ัะพะปัŒ, ะฟะตั€ะตั†, ะธ ัะฒะตะถะธะน ัƒะบั€ะพะฟ, ะตัะปะธ ะฝะฐะดะพ.

Ingredients
  • Potatoes (boiled and peeled)
  • Canned green peas
  • Pickles
  • Bologna
  • Hard-boiled eggs
  • Mayonnaise

*All ingredients are used in equal amounts

Preparation

Chop up all the ingredients into small cubes. Mix in mayonnaise. Add fresh dill, salt and pepper to taste, if desired.

ย 

ะกะฐะปะฐั‚ ะžะปะธะฒัŒะตย (ยซั†ะฐั€ัะบะธะนยป ะฒะฐั€ะธะฐะฝั‚) Olivier Saladย (โ€œTsaristโ€ version)
ะ’ะพั‚ ั€ะตั†ะตะฟั‚ ยซัะฐะปะฐั‚ะฐ ะžะปะธะฒัŒะตยป, ะฟั€ะธะณะพั‚ะฐะฒะปะธะฒะฐะตะผะพะณะพ ะฒ ะปัƒั‡ัˆะธะต ะฒั€ะตะผะตะฝะฐ ะฒ ั€ะตัั‚ะพั€ะฐะฝะต ะญั€ะผะธั‚ะฐะถ (ะฒะพััั‚ะฐะฝะพะฒะปะตะฝะฝั‹ะน ะฒ 1904 ะณะพะดัƒ ะฟะพ ะพะฟะธัะฐะฝะธัะผ ะพะดะฝะพะณะพ ะทะฐะฒัะตะณะดะฐั‚ะฐั ั€ะตัั‚ะพั€ะฐะฝะฐ):

ะ˜ะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹

  • ะคะธะปะต ะดะฒัƒั… ะพั‚ะฒะฐั€ะตะฝะฝั‹ั… ั€ัะฑั‡ะธะบะพะฒ
  • ะžะดะธะฝ ะพั‚ะฒะฐั€ะตะฝะฝั‹ะน ั‚ะตะปัั‡ะธะน ัะทั‹ะบ
  • ะžะบะพะปะพ 100 ะณั€ะฐะผะผะพะฒ ะฟะฐัŽัะฝะพะน ั‡ั‘ั€ะฝะพะน ะธะบั€ั‹
  • 200 ะณั€ะฐะผะผะพะฒ ัะฒะตะถะธั… ะปะธัั‚ัŒะตะฒ ัะฐะปะฐั‚ะฐ
  • 25 ะพั‚ะฒะฐั€ะตะฝะฝั‹ั… ั€ะฐะบะพะฒ ะธะปะธ ะพะดะธะฝ ะฑะพะปัŒัˆะพะน ะพะผะฐั€
  • 200-250 ะณั€ะฐะผะผะพะฒ ะผะตะปะบะธั… ะพะณัƒั€ั‡ะธะบะพะฒ
  • ะŸะพะปะฑะฐะฝะบะธ ัะพะธ ะบะฐะฑัƒะปัŒ (ะฟะฐัั‚ะฐ ะธะท ัะพะธ)
  • 2 ะผะตะปะบะพ ะฟะพั€ะตะทะฐะฝะฝั‹ั… ัะฒะตะถะธั… ะพะณัƒั€ั†ะฐ
  • 100 ะณั€ะฐะผะผะพะฒ ะบะฐะฟะตั€ัะพะฒ
  • 5 ะผะตะปะบะพะฝะฐั€ัƒะฑะปะตะฝะฝั‹ั…, ัะฒะฐั€ะตะฝะฝั‹ั… ะฒะบั€ัƒั‚ัƒัŽ ัะธั†

ะ—ะฐะฟั€ะฐะฒะบะฐ ัะพัƒัะพะผ ยซะŸั€ะพะฒะฐะฝัะฐะปัŒยป: 400 ะณั€ะฐะผะผะพะฒ ะพะปะธะฒะบะพะฒะพะณะพ ะผะฐัะปะฐ ะฒะทะฑะธั‚ั‹ะต ั ะดะฒัƒะผั ัะฒะตะถะธะผะธ ัะธั‡ะฝั‹ะผะธ ะถะตะปั‚ะบะฐะผะธ, ั ะดะพะฑะฐะฒะปะตะฝะธะตะผ ั„ั€ะฐะฝั†ัƒะทัะบะพะณะพ ัƒะบััƒัะฐ ะธ ะณะพั€ั‡ะธั†ั‹.

ะŸั€ะธะณะพั‚ะพะฒะปะตะฝะธะต

ะ˜ะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹ ะฝะฐั€ะตะทะฐั‚ัŒ ะผะตะปะบะธะผะธ ะบัƒะฑะธะบะฐะผะธ. ะ—ะฐะฟั€ะฐะฒะธั‚ัŒ ัะพัƒัะพะผ ยซะŸั€ะพะฒะฐะฝัะฐะปัŒยป.

This early recipe for Olivier salad, prepared during the height of the Hermitage restaurantโ€™s popularity (this recipe was written out in 1904, according to the description of one of the restaurantโ€™s frequent customers):

Ingredients

  • 2 boiled game hens
  • 1 boiled veal tongue
  • Approx. 100 grams of black caviar
  • 200 grams of fresh lettuce leaves
  • 25 boiled crayfish or one large lobster
  • 200-250 grams of small gherkins
  • Half a can of โ€œsoy kabulโ€ (soy paste)
  • 2 thinly sliced fresh cucumbers
  • 100 grams of capers
  • 5 finely chopped hard-boiled eggs

Provencal Sauce: beat 400 grams of olive oil with two egg yolks until light and smooth, then add French vinegar and mustard.

Preparation

Chop up all the ingredients into small cubes. Mix in the Provencal Sauce.

Our Favorite Olivier Clips

This made-for-internet series, known as ยซะ›ัŽะฑะธะผั‹ะต ั€ะตั†ะตะฟั‚ั‹ ั ะะฐั‚ะฐะปัŒะตะน ะกะบะฒะพั€ั†ะพะฒะพะนยป, is apparently done to advertise the mayonnaise brand ยซะœะพัะบะพะฒัะบะธะน ะŸั€ะพะฒะฐะฝัะฐะปัŒยป. Note that the host gives very little direction on how to actually prepare the salad โ€“ nearly the entire time is given over to the saladโ€™s history. It is obviously assumed that most Russian-speaking viewers are already familiar with the preparation and likely more interested in a good narrative.

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Another recipe for Olivier Salad โ€“ from a very calm, Russian-speaking woman who describes the process slowly and clearly.

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About the author

Josh Wilson

Josh Wilson

Josh lived in Moscow from 2003, when he first arrived to study Russian with SRAS, until 2022. He holds an M.A. in Theatre and a B.A. in History from Idaho State University, where his masters thesis was written on the political economy of Soviet-era censorship organs affecting the stage. At SRAS, Josh assists in program development and leads our Internship Programs. He is also the editor-in-chief for the SRAS newsletter, the SRAS Family of Sites, and Vestnik. He has previously served as Communications Director to Bellerage Alinga and has served as a consultant or translator to several businesses and organizations with interests in Russia.

Program attended: SRAS Staff Member

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Andrei Nesterov

Andrei Nesterov

Andrei Nesterov leads SRAS' Research Services, performing remote archive research and consultations for researchers around the globe. Andrei graduated from Ural State University (journalism) and Irkutsk State Linguistic University (English). He also studied public policy and journalism at Duke University on a Muskie Fellowship and taught Russian at West Virginia University. As a journalist, he has reported in both Russian and English language outlets and has years of archival research experience. He has travelled Russia extensively and penned many stories on the โ€œreal Russiaโ€ which lies beyond the capital and major cities. Andrei also contributes news, feature stories, and language resources to the SRAS Family of Sites.

Program attended: SRAS Staff Member

View all posts by: Andrei Nesterov