Lagman: Central Asian Noodles & Broth

Лагман (lagman) is a dish that is very common in Central Asia, China, and much of Russia. While the basic recipe has perhaps hundreds of local variations, this simple and filling dish always consists of noodles floating in broth or soaked in a savory sauce with vegetables and often features meat, spices, and various savory sauces as well.

The various components are often laid out buffet-style for each person to add according to their individual tastes.

Почему он носит такое название?

Thought to have first appeared in China, лагман is considered a national dish of the Uighur and the Dungan (Hui) peoples, two mostly Muslim minorities of China. Over the course of time, and thanks to the Uighur and Dungan migration, and Dungan people’s frequenting the silk road as well-known traders, лагман became more and more popular throughout Central Asia. Today, it is beloved in Kazakhstan, Kurdistan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and Uzbekistan, from where it would then travel to Russia as many of those lands became part of the Russian empire. Indeed, лагман seems to be an ideal food for travelers, as is can be prepared in just two pots over a fire: one for preparing the meat and vegetables for the sauce/soup, and the other for boiling the noodles.

The name “лагман” comes from a modification of the Dungan word “люман” (lyuman), literally meaning “stretched out dough.” As the name implies, the main component of лагман is noodles, which are rolled and stretched by hand. The noodles are combined with a thick sauce or broth made from vegetables and/or meat. Mutton or beef is most commonly used, but the choices and combinations for vegetables, meat, and seasoning in лагман are endless.

The two essential parts of лагман are most often referred to in Russian as лапша (noodles) and ваджа, a word that generally refers to something resembling a very thick stew that is not meant to be eaten on its own, but rather added to broth or other ingredients.

Как правильно есть лагман?

Лагман, a simple, filling, and flexible dish, is a staple of Central Asian and Chinese diets and is eaten quite often in those countries, sometimes twice a day.

Лагман is sometimes served with the various components (noodles and broth, vegetables, meat, sauces, etc.) in separate bowls, and diners mix and match as they please. However, it is also often served in a single bowl to each diner with a bed of noodles topped with the meat, broth, and so forth.

The methods for eating лагман are as numerous as the ways to prepare it. You can use a fork or chopsticks (known as simply “палочки,” or “sticks” in Russian). The broth is usually drunk straight from the bowl or can be more civilly taken care of with a spoon.

In its cultural relevance, this simple food is somewhat akin to soup and bread in the West and has many connotations of hospitality, community, and good fortune. One Asian legend states that the first лагман was prepared when three traveling merchants met at a crossroads. One had a cauldron, another flour and meat, and the last vegetables and spices. The last man also had culinary and diplomatic skills and suggested that they all pool their resources. Thus, they settled near a spring and the cook/diplomat produced the first лагман. The legend continues, saying that a Chinese dignitary passed by, smelled the cooking, asked for some, and, upon eating it, was so amazed that he granted the three travelers a safe and duty-free stay in his territory.

The Chinese, whose culture is steeped in symbolism, also consider лагман a dish which connotes love, perhaps a connection to previously mentioned story of its origin. Three weary travelers coming together, pooling their resources, and producing a dish that, in the end, is definitely comfort food par excellence.

Как правильно готовить лагман?

Лагман comes in many, many variations. In Russia and most of Central Asia, it is usually served in broth and resembles a very thick noodle soup. However, in more eastern lands, it resembles spaghetti. In fact, there are endless debates throughout this large part of the world on how to properly prepare and eat it (only with a fork, twirling the fork in a spoon, with thick sauce, thin sauce, etc.).

The most convenient tool for cooking лагман is a good, thick cauldron (known as a “котелок” in Russian). But if you don’t have one, just grab any tall cast iron pot with a thick bottom.

As mentioned above, the main part of traditional лагман is homemade, hand-stretched noodles. Of course, today, store-bought noodles are far more common, but making these noodles isn’t too hard, even if it requires some patience. Since the noodles must be stretched by hand, the dough should be as elastic as possible. Thus it’s extremely important to choose your flour correctly. The method which produces the best results is mixing the highest quality and next-highest quality wheat flour.

For each kilogram of flour you’ll need 300 milliliters of water, 2 eggs, one teaspoon of vinegar, and salt to taste. Pasta recipes will often skip the vinegar, but it is precisely that which will give your dough the extra plasticity and allow you to stretch it without too much exertion.

Pour the flour into a deep bowl, make a well, gently pour in the beaten eggs, and a little warm water. Start to carefully fold the mixture into dough, and add extra flour to thicken it if need be (but don’t add too much or the dough will be too thick to stretch!). Then aggressively knead the dough until it’s homogenouss and stretchy. The longer and stronger you knead the dough, the more elastic and adhesive it becomes, making it easier for you to stretch it later. Make the dough into a ball, wrap it in cellophane, and put in a cool place for thirty minutes to an hour.

Now you get to stretch the pasta (растягивать лапшу). Divide the dough into pieces and roll it into thick strands. Carefully coat each strand with vegetable oil and let them sit for 10-15 minutes. After that, start to stretch the dough. Start by rolling the dough tightly between your palms and the table, trying not to break it. Do this to each strip twice and stretch with your hands. The pasta should remain on the table, which makes it easy to roll and keeps it from breaking. The first time you make it the pasta may not turn out like you want, but keep trying. Real noodles are an unforgettable and tasty experience!

Cook the pasta immediately. Fill a deep pot with water, add salt and bring to a boil. Without lowering the heat, put the pasta into the water for 3-5 minutes. Don’t stir the pasta, otherwise it will clump. Then, put the pasta into a strainer and rinse with cold water. After that put the pasta in a deep dish and coat it with vegetable oil so it won’t stick together.

If you do use store bought noodles, use regular spaghetti. This has the right texture to eat with a thick dish like лагман.

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Our Favorite Лагман Videos

This video shows a culinary amateur making noodles in her kitchen. It may be helpful for those just starting. Notice how her hands are oily and she slowly, carefully stretches the noodles into thin strands.

A seasoned veteran prepares лагман at a restaurant in Chicago. Though copying her technique may be difficult, notice how she begins with rolling the dough on the table, and the speed with which she stretches the dough evinces maximum elasticity.

A homely gentleman takes you through the whole process from start to finish. The Russian-language narration goes pretty slowly, which might be annoying to some, but probably welcomed by folks looking to practice their listening skills. The music is also an entertaining plus.

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