Korean sparzha recipe history culture

ะฃะทะฝะฐะนั‚ะต, ะบะฐะบ ะณะพั‚ะพะฒะธั‚ัŒ ัะฟะฐั€ะถัƒ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธ!

Korean Sparzha: The Soy Dish That Took the USSR by Storm

Published: November 21, 2018

Korean Sparzha (ัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธ; also called ัะพะตะฒะฐั ัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ; Soy Sparzha) has a misleading name. First, this unusual and beloved salad has nothing to do with โ€œัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ,โ€ which means โ€œasparagusโ€ in Russian. Also perhaps misleading is the fact that, while invented by Koreans, it was not invented in Korea. Like โ€œะผะพั€ะบะพะฒัŒ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธโ€ (Korean carrot salad), Korean sparzha was born in the Soviet Union, in the โ€œะšะพั€ั‘-ัะฐั€ะฐะผโ€ (Koryo-Saram) community of ethnic Koreans displaced to Central Asia by the large-scale deportation ordered by Stalin in 1937.

Today, it is popular enough and common enough throughout Russia, Ukraine, and Central Asia to be often referred as simply โ€œัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐโ€ in Russian. It is a salad made by skimming the foam from boiling soy milk (often referred to as โ€œskinโ€ or โ€œbeancurdโ€) and drying it into rod shapes. Those rods can then be stored, boiled like pasta, and served with oil and spices.

While popular, Korean sparzhaย is an anomaly in Russia and post-Soviet states, where soy products are rare. You would most likely be hard-pressed to find someone in Russia who calls tofu a part of their diet.

How It Got Its Name

(ะŸะพั‡ะตะผัƒ ะพะฝะฐ ะฝะพัะธั‚ ั‚ะฐะบะพะต ะฝะฐะทะฒะฐะฝะธะต?)

The chief ingredient in Korean sparzha is usually called โ€œdried tofu skinโ€ or โ€œdried beancurdโ€ in English. It goes by many names in Russian. There is no consensus on why the dried rods of tofu skin are most often called โ€œัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐโ€ (asparagus), but it is likely because they bear little resemblance to any other food most people are familiar with and perhaps bear some passing resemblance to the stalky vegetable, particularly the large, white variety of asparagus. It perhaps helps that asparagus in any form is actually another dish with which most Russians have little experience.

Regardless of the reason, the name confuses many fans of the dish, who believe that they are, in fact, eating asparagus in some form. The soy product is also sometimes referred to as โ€œัŽะฑะฐโ€ (yuba), the Japanese word for the film on the surface of soymilk from which the product is made, or as โ€œั„ัƒั‡ะถัƒโ€ (fuzhu), a Chinese name meaning โ€œtofu bamboo,โ€ for the rods it is sold in.

Beancurd is Chinese in origin, and has been used in both China and Japan for centuries. According to legend, it became popular thanks to Chinese Emperor Qin Shi Huang, who ruled from 246-210 BC and founded the Qin Dynasty. The legend has it that the Emperor requested an elixir of youth in his old age, and finally settled on beancurd out of the many concoctions brought to him.

Korean sparzha recipe history culture
The Koryo-Saram, a group of Koreans who were forcibly relocated to Central Asia by Stalin maintained a distinctly modified Korean culture. Particularly their culinary inventions left a great impact on Central Asia and the USSR as a whole.

The โ€œะšะพั€ั‘-ัะฐั€ะฐะผโ€ Koreans likely adopted the dish out of necessity. Displaced to Central Asia, they had to turn to farming to feed themselves. As soy was common in their diet, many planted that crop. However, food was scarce, especially in the early years. Thus, preserving the nutritional value of the beancurd, which, like the soybeans that create it, is high in protein, made sense and was one way to preserve foods for the winter as well.

How and When to Eat Korean Sparzha

(ะšะฐะบ ะฟั€ะฐะฒะธะปัŒะฝะพ ะตัั‚ัŒ ัะฟะฐั€ะถัƒ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธ?)

Korean sparzha can be found in Russia and Central Asia in supermarkets and bazaars alongside other โ€œะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธะต ัะฐะปะฐั‚ั‹โ€ (Korean salads), among which it is considered a particular delicacy.

The popularity of Korean sparzhaย has grown in Russia in recent years due to touted health benefits. It is high in protein, and thought to positively affect blood pressure and cardiac health. Folk medicine promotes the dried soy productโ€™s anti-inflammatory and diuretic properties.

Korean sparzha is frequently bought as a prepared salad, and served as a side dish, often for guests since its unusual, savory taste is so widely appreciated. Dried sparzha can also be purchased in prepackaged dried form, or produced at home from soybeans. The salad can then be prepared at home fairly simply and quickly, though some recipes insist that for best results, the sparzha must be soaked for many hours before use.

Korean sparzha recipe history culture
Packaged dried beancurd sticks as sold in Russia.

How to Prepare Korean Sparzha

(ะšะฐะบ ะฟั€ะฐะฒะธะปัŒะฝะพ ะณะพั‚ะพะฒะธั‚ัŒ ัะฟะฐั€ะถัƒ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธ?)

The tofu skin in Korean sparzha is a by-product of boiled soymilk. It is also sometimes called โ€œัะพะตะฒะฐั ะฟะตะฝะบะฐโ€ (soy foam), because it is made by skimming off the layer of film that forms on soymilk when it boils. The film is suspended to dry, and sold in pale, wrinkled stalks known as soy foam in Russia. In America, they can be found in Asian food stores or in the ethnic section of some supermarkets as โ€œdried beancurd sticks.โ€

If store bought, be sure to check the expiration date before purchasing. While they will keep for a considerable time, spoiled beancurd will definitely spoil your salad. Also, check the back for sodium content. Many brands add considerable salt to the product to boost shelf life โ€“ but the heavy salt will also affect the flavor of your salad.

To prepare store-bought sparzha at home, it first needs to be softened. This can be accomplished by soaking it in cold water overnight (or for up to 24 hours), or by pouring boiling water over it and letting soak for 30-40 minutes, or by boiling it on the stove for 10-15 minutes. Many recipes insist the slower the soaking, the better, as it will more evenly and gently soften the stick and preserve its texture.

The softened, swelled soy is then usually chopped into small sticks about 1-inch long and prepared as a salad that closely resembles โ€œะผะพั€ะบะพะฒัŒ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธโ€œ, with spices cooked in oil and poured over it. In fact, the carrot salad is sometimes added directly to Korean sparzha. The mix is often available along with the two salads in markets and supermarkets. Sometimes grated cucumbers or other fresh vegetables are added as well, although this is not as common in Russia.

The saladโ€™s dressing usually includes soy sauce, garlic, vinegar, and oil that has been heated on the stove with chopped onion. The onion is often removed before the oil is poured over the salad. Red pepper and coriander are often added for spiciness. Once prepared, the salad marinates in the refrigerator for a few hours, and is then served as a side dish, or even as a main course over rice. The finished product is succulent, chewy, and distinctively flavorful.

Korean Sparzha Recipe

(ะ”ะฐะฒะฐะน ะฟั€ะธะณะพั‚ะพะฒะธะผ!)

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ะกะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธ Korean Sparzha
ะ˜ะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹
  • ะกะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ ัะพะตะฒะฐั โ€“200 ะณั€.
  • ะœะพั€ะบะพะฒะบะฐ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธ โ€“ 100 ะณั€.
  • ะœะฐัะปะพ ะฟะพะดัะพะปะฝะตั‡ะฝะพะต โ€“ 3 ัั‚.ะป.
  • ะงะตัะฝะพะบ โ€“ 2 ะทัƒะฑั‡ะธะบะฐ
  • ะ›ัƒะบ ั€ะตะฟะบะฐ โ€“ ะฟะพะป ะปัƒะบะพะฒะธั†ั‹
  • ะšะพั€ะธะฐะฝะดั€ ะผะพะปะพั‚ั‹ะน โ€“ 0,5 ั‡.ะป.
  • ะšัƒะฝะถัƒั‚ โ€“ 0,5 ั‡.ะป.
  • ะกะฐั…ะฐั€ โ€“ 1 ยฝ ั‡.ะป.
  • ะกะพะตะฒั‹ะน ัะพัƒั โ€“ 2 ั‡.ะป.
  • ะฃะบััƒัะฝะฐั ัััะตะฝั†ะธั 70% โ€“ 2 ั‡.ะป.
  • ะšั€ะฐัะฝั‹ะน ะพัั‚ั€ั‹ะน ะฟะตั€ะตั† ะธะปะธ ะฟะฐะฟั€ะธะบะฐ, ั‡ั‘ั€ะฝั‹ะน ะฟะตั€ะตั†, ัะพะปัŒ ะฟะพ ะฒะบัƒััƒ

ะŸั€ะธะณะพั‚ะพะฒะปะตะฝะธะต

  1. ะกะฟะฐั€ะถัƒ ะทะฐะผะพั‡ะธั‚ัŒ ะฒ ั…ะพะปะพะดะฝะพะน ะฒะพะดะต ะฟั€ะธะผะตั€ะฝะพ ะฝะฐ 12 โ€“14 ั‡ะฐัะพะฒ, ัะฒะตั€ั…ัƒ ะฟั€ะธะดะฐะฒะธั‚ัŒ ั‚ะฐั€ะตะปะบะพะน, ั‡ั‚ะพะฑั‹ ัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ ะฒัั ะฟะพะบั€ั‹ะปะฐััŒ ะฒะพะดะพะน. ะ’ะพะดัƒ ะฟะตั€ะธะพะดะธั‡ะตัะบะธ ะผะตะฝัั‚ัŒ.
  2. ะšะฐะบ ั‚ะพะปัŒะบะพ ัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ ัั‚ะฐะปะฐ ะผัะณะบะพะน ะธ ัƒะฟั€ัƒะณะพะน, ัะปะธั‚ัŒ ะฒะพะดัƒ ะธ ะฝะฐั€ะตะทะฐั‚ัŒ ะฝะฐ ะฝะตะฑะพะปัŒัˆะธะต ะบัƒัะพั‡ะบะธ ะฟั€ะธะผะตั€ะฝะพ 5-6 ัะผ.
  3. Cะฟะฐั€ะถัƒ ะฟะพัะพะปะธั‚ัŒ ะฟะพ ะฒะบัƒััƒ, ั ะฝะฐัั‹ะฟะฐะปะฐ 1 ั‡.ะป.
  4. ะะฐะปะธั‚ัŒ ัƒะบััƒัะฝัƒัŽ ะบะธัะปะพั‚ัƒ, ะฒัะต ะฟะตั€ะตะผะตัˆะฐั‚ัŒ. ะ”ะฐั‚ัŒ ะฟะพัั‚ะพัั‚ัŒ ะผะธะฝัƒั‚ 10.
  5. ะกะปะธั‚ัŒ ะฒั‹ะดะตะปะธะฒัˆะธะนัั ัะพะบ.
  6. ะ›ัƒะบ ะผะตะปะบะพ ะฝะฐั€ะตะทะฐั‚ัŒ ะธ ะพะฑะถะฐั€ะธั‚ัŒ ะดะพ ะฟะพะปัƒะฟั€ะพะทั€ะฐั‡ะฝะพัั‚ะธ.
  7. ะะฐัั‹ะฟะฐั‚ัŒ ัะฐั…ะฐั€, ะผะพะปะพั‚ั‹ะน ะบะพั€ะธะฐะฝะดั€, ั‡ั‘ั€ะฝั‹ะน ะฟะตั€ะตั†, ะบั€ะฐัะฝั‹ะน ะพัั‚ั€ั‹ะน ะธะปะธ ะฟะฐะฟั€ะธะบัƒ, ัะพะตะฒั‹ะน ัะพัƒั, ะฒั‹ะดะฐะฒะธั‚ัŒ ั‡ะตัะฝะพะบ, ะฝะฐะปะธั‚ัŒ ะผะฐัะปะพ ั ะพะฑะถะฐั€ะตะฝะฝั‹ะผ ะปัƒะบะพะผ.
  8. ะ”ะพะฑะฐะฒะธั‚ัŒ ะผะพั€ะบะพะฒัŒ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธ. ะ’ัะต ั…ะพั€ะพัˆะพ ะฟะตั€ะตะผะตัˆะฐั‚ัŒ. ะŸะพัั‹ะฟะฐั‚ัŒ ะบัƒะฝะถัƒั‚ะพะผ.
Ingredients
  • Soy sparzha โ€“ 7 oz
  • Korean carrot salad โ€“ 3.5 oz
  • Sunflower seed oil โ€“ 3 tbsp
  • Garlic โ€“ 2 cloves
  • Onion โ€“ half bulb
  • Ground coriander โ€“ 0.5 tsp
  • Sesame seeds โ€“ 0.5 tsp
  • Sugar โ€“ 1.5 tsp
  • Soy sauce โ€“ 2 tsp
  • 70% Vinegar โ€“ 2 tsp
  • Hot red pepper or paprika, black pepper, salt to taste

Preparation

  1. Soak the sparzha in cold water for about 12-14 hours. Set a plate on top so that the sparzha is completely covered by the water. Change the water periodically.
  2. Once the sparzha becomes soft and elastic, drain the water and cut into small pieces, about 5-6 cm (about 2 inches).
  3. Salt the sparzha to taste (about 1 tsp)
  4. Add vinegar and mix well. Let stand 10 minutes.
  5. Drain separated juice.
  6. Finely chop the onion and fry until translucent.
  7. Add sugar, coriander, black pepper, red pepper or paprika, and soy sauce; press the garlic; add the oil with fried onions.
  8. Add Korean carrot salad. Mix well. Sprinkle with sesame seeds.

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ะกะพะตะฒะฐั ัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ ะฟะพ-ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธ Korean Soy Sparzha (Spicy)
ะ˜ะฝะณั€ะตะดะธะตะฝั‚ั‹
  • ะšะพั€ะธะฐะฝะดั€ ััƒั…ะพะน โ€“ 1 ัั‚. ะป.
  • ะ›ัƒะบ ั€ะตะฟั‡ะฐั‚ั‹ะน โ€“ 1 ัˆั‚.
  • ะœะฐัะปะพ ะฟะพะดัะพะปะฝะตั‡ะฝะพะต ั€ะฐั„ะธะฝะธั€ะพะฒะฐะฝะฝะพะต โ€“ 120 ะผะป
  • ะœะพั€ะบะพะฒัŒ โ€“ 200 ะณ
  • ะกะฐั…ะฐั€ โ€“ 1 ัั‚. ะป.
  • ะกะพะปัŒ ะบั€ัƒะฟะฝะพะบั€ะธัั‚ะฐะปะปะธั‡ะตัะบะฐั โ€“ 1 ัั‚. ะป.
  • ะกะพัƒั ัะพะตะฒั‹ะน โ€“ 30 ะผะป
  • ะกะพัƒั ั‡ะธะปะธ ะพัั‚ั€ั‹ะน โ€“ 20 ะผะป
  • ะฃะบััƒั ะฒะธะฝะฝั‹ะน ะฑะตะปั‹ะน โ€“ 4 ัั‚. ะป.
  • ะคัƒั‡ะถัƒ (ัะพะตะฒะฐั ัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ) โ€“ 250 ะณ
  • ะงะตัะฝะพะบ โ€“ 2 ะทัƒะฑั‡ะธะบ
  • ะงะตัะฝะพะบ ััƒัˆั‘ะฝั‹ะน ะณั€ะฐะฝัƒะปะธั€ะพะฒะฐะฝะฝั‹ะน โ€“ 1 ัั‚. ะป.

ะŸั€ะธะณะพั‚ะพะฒะปะตะฝะธะต

  1. ะ—ะฐะปะตะนั‚ะต ั„ัƒั‡ะถัƒ ั‚ั‘ะฟะปะพะน ะฒะพะดะพะน ะธ ะพัั‚ะฐะฒัŒั‚ะต ะฝะฐ 8 ั‡ะฐัะพะฒ ะฟั€ะธ ะบะพะผะฝะฐั‚ะฝะพะน ั‚ะตะผะฟะตั€ะฐั‚ัƒั€ะต. ะ—ะฐั‚ะตะผ ะฟั€ะพะผะพะนั‚ะต ะธ ะฝะฐั€ะตะถัŒั‚ะต ะบัƒัะพั‡ะบะฐะผะธ ะฟะพ 6-7 ัะผ.
  2. ะะฐั‚ั€ะธั‚ะต ะผะพั€ะบะพะฒัŒ ะฝะฐ ั‚ั‘ั€ะบะต ะดะปั ะบะพั€ะตะนัะบะธั… ัะฐะปะฐั‚ะพะฒ.
  3. ะ”ะพะฑะฐะฒัŒั‚ะต ัะพะปัŒ, ัะฐั…ะฐั€, ัƒะบััƒั, ัะพะตะฒั‹ะน ัะพัƒั ะธ ั€ะฐะทะพั‚ั€ะธั‚ะต ั€ัƒะบะฐะผะธ ะดะพ ะฟะพัะฒะปะตะฝะธั ัะพะบะฐ.
  4. ะ ะฐะทะพะณั€ะตะนั‚ะต ะฒ ะบะพะฒัˆะต ะผะฐัะปะพ, ะฒั‹ะปะพะถะธั‚ะต ะฒ ะฝะตะณะพ ะบั€ัƒะฟะฝะพ ะฝะฐั€ะตะทะฐะฝะฝั‹ะต ะปัƒะบ ะธ ั‡ะตัะฝะพะบ. ะžะฑะถะฐั€ัŒั‚ะต ะดะพ ะทะพะปะพั‚ะธัั‚ะพะณะพ ั†ะฒะตั‚ะฐ. ะ—ะฐั‚ะตะผ ะปัƒะบ ะธ ั‡ะตัะฝะพะบ ะผะพะถะฝะพ ัะฟะพะบะพะนะฝะพ ะฒั‹ะบะธะฝัƒั‚ัŒ โ€” ะพะฝะธ ะฑะพะปัŒัˆะต ะฝะต ะฟะพะฝะฐะดะพะฑัั‚ัั.
  5. ะ”ะพะฑะฐะฒัŒั‚ะต ะบ ะผะพั€ะบะพะฒะธ, ะพัั‚ั€ั‹ะน ัะพัƒั, ะบะพั€ะธะฐะฝะดั€, ะณั€ะฐะฝัƒะปะธั€ะพะฒะฐะฝะฝั‹ะน ั‡ะตัะฝะพะบ, ะทะฐะปะตะนั‚ะต ะฒัั‘ ัั‚ะพ ะบะธะฟัั‰ะธะผ ะผะฐัะปะพะผ ะธ ะฟะตั€ะตะผะตัˆะฐะนั‚ะต. ะขะตะฟะตั€ัŒ ะพั‚ะฟั€ะฐะฒัŒั‚ะต ะทะฐะบัƒัะบัƒ ะฒ ั…ะพะปะพะดะธะปัŒะฝะธะบ ะผะธะฝะธะผัƒะผ ะฝะฐ 8 ั‡ะฐัะพะฒ ะดะปั ะผะฐั€ะธะฝะพะฒะฐะฝะธั, ะทะฐ ัั‚ะพ ะฒั€ะตะผั ัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ ะฒะฟะธั‚ะฐะตั‚ ะฒัะต ะฒะบัƒัั‹. ะœะพะถะฝะพ ะฟะตั€ะธะพะดะธั‡ะตัะบะธ ะฟะตั€ะตะผะตัˆะธะฒะฐั‚ัŒ.
  6. ะŸะพะดะฐะฒะฐะนั‚ะต ะบ ัั‚ะพะปัƒ! ะŸั€ะธัั‚ะฝะพะณะพ ะฐะฟะฟะตั‚ะธั‚ะฐ!
Ingredients
  • Ground coriander โ€“ 1 tbsp
  • Onion โ€“ 1
  • Refined sunflower seed oil โ€“ .5 cup
  • Carrots โ€“ 7 oz
  • Sugar โ€“ 1 tbsp
  • Coarse salt โ€“ 1 tbsp
  • Soy sauce โ€“ 2 tbsp
  • Hot chili sauce โ€“ 4 tsp
  • White wine vinegar โ€“ 3 tbsp
  • Fuzhu (soy sparzha) โ€“ 8.8 oz
  • Garlic โ€“ 2 cloves
  • Garlic powder โ€“ 1 tbsp

Preparation

  1. Cover the fuzhu in warm water and let stand for 8 hours at room temperature. Then rinse and cut into pieces 6-7 cm (2-3 inches) long.
  2. Grate carrots on a Korean salad grater.
  3. Add salt, sugar, vinegar, and soy sauce, and use hands to mix well, until the mixture produces a juice.
  4. Heat oil in a pot, and add coarsely chopped onion and garlic. Fry until golden. Then remove the onion and garlic, which are no longer needed.
  5. Add the hot sauce, coriander, and garlic powder to the carrot mixture, then add all ingredients to the boiling oil and mix well. Now put the salad in the refrigerator for at least 8 hours of marinating, to allow the sparzha to absorb all the flavors. You can stir it periodically.
  6. Serve! Bon appetite!

Our Favorite Korean Sparzha Videos

This clear video follows the first recipe above.

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This segment by โ€œะ–ะธั‚ัŒ ะทะดะพั€ะพะฒะพ!โ€ (Healthy Living!, a program on Russiaโ€™s Pervy Kanal) on Korean sparzha playfully covers the topic of ัะพะตะฒะฐั ัะฟะฐั€ะถะฐ from every angle, including its name, how to choose a high-quality product, and how to prepare it.

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About the author

Sophia Rehm

Sophia Rehm graduated from the University of Chicago with a BA in Russian Language and Literature. Sophia is currently SRAS's Translate Abroad Scholar. She hopes to return to Russia and to pursue literary translation and further studies of Russian literature.

View all posts by: Sophia Rehm